2000 Geyser Peak Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($12). Just when I was about to swear off California chardonnay, along comes this superb value from the highly reliable Geyser Peak winery. The Geyser Peak winemaking team seems to grasp the notion that fruit, rather than oak, is the point of a wine. Lush flavors of apple, lemon, tropical fruit, nuts and melon predominate - without going over the top. The oak influence is subtle, and the wine finishes with crisp, refreshing acidity. In terms of complexity, it blows away many a $20 California chardonnay.