2000 Alexander Valley Dry Chenin Blanc, Alexander Valley ($9). This intensely flavorful, dry white wine offers wonderful freshness, structure and liveliness. Exceptionally complex for its price, it displays a fascinating mix of flavors: lime, peach, pear, cherry and slate. It's far more elegant and less of a strictly summer wine than many California chenin blancs. It would be an excellent companion with a wide variety of seafood or spicy Asian food. This wine makes you wonder why more wineries don't focus their attention on this under-appreciated varietal.