Those Lips, Those Eyes

Sultry, smoky, hardly subtle -- this year's dramatic makeup palette emboldens the woman who loves hot color with a smudge of scandal.

Focus On Beauty

September 09, 2001|By Tricia Bishop | Tricia Bishop,Sun Staff

A girl whose cheeks are covered with paint

Has an advantage with me over one whose ain't.

-- Ogden Nash

The natural look: Who needs it? Pale cheeks, stringy hair, flawed complexions -- leave those for the women of Survivor. For the rest of us, bring on the goods: colored powders, volumizing sprays, creamy foundations -- all of the potions and paints that turn women into Picassos.

This fall, our palette is the stuff of masterpieces -- lots of deep, dark shades of purple, burgundy, charcoal and red.

"We're calling it the downtown-luxe look," says Molly Nover, beauty editor at Sephora.com. "There's a lot of rich, luxurious colors and textures, but it's not as sophisticated as last fall; it's a little more rock and roll."

And a little bit '40s pin-up: This year, the two faces of fall call for either smoky, sultry eyes with pale lips, or softer eyes and a mouth so red it's almost scandalous -- looks we owe to the runways.

"Fashion designers really are setting the trends," says Nover. "The [beauty] brands pick up what they're doing and take it from there."

The clothes on this season's catwalks ran the gamut from military-inspired styles to equestrian gear, but the models' makeup provided a common thread. Dark eyes and sensual mouths showed up over and over again.

So get ready to vamp it up a little and take notes as we outline the autumn faces.

THE EYES HAVE IT

If rock-star bad girl or vintage vixen circa 1930 is your style, you'll want to get on the smoky bandwagon. Usually done in shades of black and gray, this year's smoky eye has "busted out with color," Nover says.

Get the look: Line your upper and lower lash lines with a liner -- try a deep purple (the color of the season), forest green or dark blue -- and smudge. Then take your matching shadow and brush it across your lid and slightly above the crease in a half-moon shape. Use the same brush to swipe color beneath your lower lashes. Then slather on a matching mascara and go.

For a more mod, less raccooned look, dark liner is still the way to go, but choose shadows in beiges, peaches or pale grays for the rest of the lid. The softer eye is setting you up for that killer red mouth.

Get the look: Use a liner along the upper lash line only (extend it past the corner of your eye to spice things up) and fill the rest of the lid in with a light shadow. Add shadow on your lower lid as well, and gob on the mascara.

On the edge: Less conventional eye trends call for playful shadows and liners in bright shades of fuchsia, purple, green or yellow, with mascaras to match.

SKIN-TONE SKINNY

"The last couple of years we've been in Charlie's Angels' land with a very glossy face," Hewitt says. "Now we're toning it down a bit."

Get the look: This year's finish is more matte and more natural. Use a sheer foundation and set it lightly with brushed-on loose powder.

CHEEKS TO CHEER FOR

"The contoured cheek is back," says Nover, "but it's not as bold as it used to be in the '80s." The colors are in lighter shades of peach, soft pink, warm auburn and shimmery tan.

Get the look: Using a two-tone blush, apply the lighter of the colors along the cheekbones and the darker color slightly below for emphasis.

For the younger set, the look is the opposite, says Diana Lorenz Byrne, beauty director at YM magazine: "Teen cheeks are really hot right now, but it's not about the slash and making your cheekbones look higher. It's a just-in-from-the-cold, flushed pink."

Get the look: Using a cream or powder blush, put the color on the apples of your cheeks and leave the rest of your face fairly bare for a natural, healthy look.

On the edge: Punk it up with hot-pink blush.

THE HAIR TO HAVE

Longer bangs, asymmetrical edges and a sleeker finish define the fall hairdo, says runway stylist Danilo, who calls it "the my-boyfriend-cut-my-hair look." (above)

Get the look: Start with a shaggy, pieced-out cut that falls between your chin and shoulders. Part hair at the outer edge of your eyebrow and brush it to the side so your bangs frame your face. Texturize the ends for an unstructured feel (Danilo recommends using Physique's Precision Pomade).

On the edge: Color is hot. Take a cue from Sarah Jessica Parker and go all-over dark for fall with warm browns or bronzy reds, or color your hair two shades darker underneath and two shades lighter on top if you dare.

FALL 2001 MUST-HAVES

"A great, really bright pink blush." -- YM magazine beauty director Diana Lorenz Byrne

"The red lipstick. If red scares you, start with a great red lip gloss or one of Estee Lauder's new red lip stains." -- Celebrity makeup artist Julie Hewitt

"A volume-boosting mascara. Try a deep plum."-- Sephora.com beauty editor Molly Nover

"A cream blush; they're really popular this season, and they come in a compact or a stick." -- Owings-Mills-based Studio of Make-Up owner Karen Weiner

THE NAIL TALE

For the most part, nails are darker for fall, drawing their colors from the deeper burgundies, reds and purples available.

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