Face It

When it comes to spring makeup, women can paint on the '80s glitter or cool it in light classics.

Focus On Beauty

March 04, 2001|By Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan | Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan,Sun Staff

Spring has two faces. Hard-core fashion crowds will be making themselves up '80s style, while play-it-safers will opt for a classic, fresh look.

If you're seeking a Cyndi-Lauper-inspired visage, you'll want to load on the glittery eye shadow, nonblack mascara and thick eyeliner.

"It's all about fun," said Molly Nover, Sephora.com beauty editor. "There's lots of color, lots of bold liner, which we really haven't seen all that often. The must-have item for everyone will be eyeliner -- black, colored, liquid or pencil."

Here's our tip sheet on achieving both looks:

For Material Girl wannabes

Lips: Deep reds and glossy bubble-gum pinks will rule in the pucker category. Corals and oranges work, too. If you think these hues are hard to pull off, try light or sheer shades of these colors.

Recommendation: Vincent Longo sheer lipsticks ($18 each).

Cheeks: A faux summer glow is the aura to exude. Try brushing a bronzing powder over your cheeks, nose, chin and forehead. You also could try lightly dusting a pink or red blush across these areas for the same effect. "We never encourage people to get a real tan because of sun damage," Nover said.

Recommendation: Givenchy Techni-color Face Prism ($40), which offers blush in nine shades for you to blend together to get the right tone.

Eyes: Whether it's black or colored liner, the cool way to pencil or brush the line in is to create a small tail that extends beyond the eye. Colored mascaras are a must-have for the '80s look, too.

As for eye-shadow, use only one color on your lids this season. And the key is to pick something shimmery in peach or gold. "Because of the shimmer, in different light it's going to reflect differently," Nover said. "It's almost like you have more than one color, but it's just one."

Recommendation: Almost every brand has colored liners, but you can try Sephora's, which come in purples, greens, pinks and oranges ($11). As for eye shadows, Urban Decay's ($14) come in interesting hues. Stila ($16) and Christian Dior ($18) provide good color variety in mascaras.

Brows: Make your brows more defined. This season, it's hip to have them a little thicker.

Recommendation: Hard Candy training brow kit ($28) includes a brush, tweezers, brow powders and mascara wand.

Final tip: "It's completely different from seasons past, where it was very conservative and straightforward and elegant," Nover said. "This season it's a little more playful. So, experiment, be a little bit wild."

For that classic look

Lips: Gloss is huge again. "The face is very pretty, light and sheer," said celebrity makeup artist Valerie Sarnelle, whose Beverly Hills salon lists regulars like Pamela Anderson and Tori Spelling. "So if you use lip liner, you've really got to blend it." And try lip glosses in peaches and corals.

Recommendation: Too Faced Cosmetics' Gossip glosses ($16) come in pink-hued Snitch or peachy Tattle-Tale. If you want a combination of pink and peach, Tony & Tina's Shamanka shade is a blend of the two ($14).

Cheeks: The look for spring is a rosy, pinched-cheek look ("like someone took you and pinched your cheeks," Sarnelle said). To achieve this effect, lightly brush on a reddish or plum color.

Recommendation: Christian Dior spring collection, which is themed "Flower Mania." Try Natural Lilac, Naive Rose or Natural Gold ($32).

Eyes: Shimmery taupes, lavenders, purples and pinks will work well with the frilly, feminine dresses of spring. If you use more than one color, be sure to blend well so it doesn't have any harsh lines. And line your eyes to create a soft and sexy almond shape. As for lashes, Sarnelle recommended using fake ones with lots of mascara.

Recommendation: Awake Cosmetics' single eye shadows in peach, light lavender, teal blue or sky blue will give a subtle wash of color ($17). For mascara, try Vincent Longo's basic black or black-brown ($15).

Brows: Sarnelle, known in Beverly Hills as the "Brow Queen," said brows have to be noticeable this season. So make them dramatic.

Recommendation: Hard Candy training brow kit ($28).

Final tip: "The fashions are really very feminine for spring," Sarnelle said. "There are a lot of frills and blouses, and it's a very girly look. So it's not going to be a dark-eyed look. It's going to be soft and shimmery."

Celebrity secrets from the 'Brow Queen'

Ever wondered what helps stars look so fabulous all the time? Hollywood beauty maven Valerie Sarnelle has some of the answers. Here are some celebrity secret weapons in the Valerie Beverly Hills makeup line:

Naturelle Hi-Liter: This thick, soft pink pencil ($20) is used to highlight the part just below the brow. Not only does it hide stray hairs if your brows are growing in, Sarnelle said, it also "pops up" your brow bone to make your eyes look more deep-set.

Stars who use it: Heather Locklear and Debra Messing from "Will & Grace."

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