Sisson's will reopen as a steakhouse

TABLE TALK

January 11, 2001|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

When Sisson's (32-36 E. Cross St.) opens in February after extensive renovation, more will be changed than just the ownership and decor. The city's best-known Cajun restaurant will become a "Baltimore steakhouse," according to Thomas Cizauskas, one of the new owners.

How will a Baltimore steakhouse be different from other steakhouses? I asked him.

"It will be affordable," he said. Sisson's beef will come from a single Omaha ranch, and the restaurant plans to have its own butcher on site. A 12-ounce New York strip, for instance, will cost $13.

As for the renovation, Cizauskas and his partners, Craig Stuart-Paul and Paul Morrissey, have torn down walls, exposed and repointed brick, raised ceilings, opened up the downstairs and made the bar the center of the main room. The three small dining rooms upstairs have been renovated, and the partners are planning to add a small bar there. Pending approval, the facade will be redone as well, and the three fronts of the rowhouses that make up Sisson's will be combined.

One thing won't change: Sisson's will still be brewing beer, including a new real ale (a traditional British ale).

"We're also serious about wine," says Cizauskas. Their new wine list will include 25 to 30 wines with the emphasis on reds, most of which will be available by the glass. "If your companion is drinking a pint of beer, you may not want to order a whole bottle [of wine]," he points out.

Bragging on breakfast

My item on homey breakfasts last week struck a chord with several readers who have their own favorites. Most recommended was the Ashland Cafe in Cockeysville:

"In addition to all the regular breakfast dishes, they also serve creamed chipped beef, pigs in a blanket and corned beef hash. Their home fries are normal potatoes with real onions, not those squished through a blender things that seem to be the rage today. Good food, reasonable prices, normal people and lots of coffee refills -- what more could you want for breakfast?" wrote Linda DeBlase.

Other readers had good things to say about the Sip & Bite in Canton, the Blue Moon Cafe in Fells Point, the Papermoon on 29th Street and Souris Saloon in Towson.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2519; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

Elizabeth Large's restaurant reviews appear in Sunday's Home & Family section. This Sunday: Remomo in Arundel Mills Mall.

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