1997 Fetzer Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($18). This full-bodied cabernet with a supple feel and generous fruit delivers admirable complexity and forcefulness for its price. The 1997 vintage was exceptional for cabernet in California's northern wine counties, and its quality shows in the ripe, rounded flavors of black cherry, blackberry and spices. Behind its plump charm lurks admirable structure, so you can safely put this wine away for further development over the next five to 10 years. It showed very well with lamb tenderloin.

