Just a few short months ago, Manley's Bistro was the site of a greasy, take-out pizza shop. Now, it's a slice of European charm, with a handsome bar and white-tablecloth tables that seat 48.
Owner Keith Manley took over the small space in September and finished redecorating in January. He opened for business July 15 after getting a liquor license and completing the plumbing and electrical work.
"He has done a magnificent job in decorating," said Preston Pairo Jr., who owns the building. "I think it's going to be a real winner."
Pairo, an amateur gourmet, was so impressed with Manley's vision for the bistro that he waived the rent for five months. When he saw the finished product, he gave Manley his collection of Gourmet magazines, dating to 1948.
Manley said he had no experience with interior design, but he knew what he was looking for.
"I wanted it to be a comfortable place, where you would come in and not feel you were rushed and where you could enjoy a good dinner," he said. "I wanted darker colors so it would exude comfort."
Manley built a bar where the take-out counter used to be, changed the lighting and installed a wine cellar.
Manley, who graduated from the Culinary Arts Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., shut down his French Confetti Catering company to open the bistro. He describes the menu as a mix of traditional French dishes and American favorites.
The French dishes include coq au vin, described on the menu as "chicken cooked in red wine with wild mushrooms and lentils," and saumon au vin blanc, a "salmon filet poached in a white wine sauce with lemon spinach and roasted potatoes."
The menu is small, but every dish has been given careful thought, Manley said.
Appetizers and desserts should not be missed. Appetizers include escargots en croute (snails wrapped in phyllo dough) and tarte aux champignons (a portabello mushroom with goat cheese and shrimp).
The soups are lobster bisque and onion. Desserts include an apple caramel tart and creme brulee.
Manley, who grew up in Howard County and lives in Baltimore County, is pleased to see his small restaurant getting a little more crowded each day.
"It was definitely the direction I was heading in," he said. "I had been looking for a location that would be small enough to be manageable. I wanted something that would not be overwhelming but would be a busy little restaurant."
Manley's Bistro
Where: 9065 Frederick Road, Ellicott City; 410-480-2020.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; closed Sundays.
Prices: Appetizers, $4 to $8.95; entrees: $11.95 to $17.95.
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express.
