`Creative but not too far out'

TABLE TALK

July 27, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Consider it an upscale version of surf and turf. With Aqua Terra, the hip new eating place at 164 Main St. in Annapolis, the name says it all - you can get everything from Chilean sea bass in a citrus sauce to a grilled veal chop.

The restaurant is owned by husband and wife Alison and Ken Chase. Alison describes her husband's contemporary American cooking as "creative but not too far out." Look for dishes like a crab tower (a pan-seared jumbo lump crab cake in the shape of a pyramid) and garlic mashed potatoes.

Aqua Terra's dining room is cosmopolitan and understated. Walls are gray, hung with mirrors; natural wood adds warmth to the room. A handsome granite counter fronts the open kitchen.

Entrees range from $14.50 to $24.95, complemented by what Alison terms an "approachable" wine list, with prices from $22 to $33.

Crabs with a view

Tourists and natives alike don't just want to pick steamed crabs, they want to do it sitting outdoors with a waterfront view. You already know about Phillips in Harborplace.

Here are a few other suggestions: In Canton: the new Bo Brooks (2701 Boston St.) and Captain James Landing (2127 Boston St.); In Fells Point: Brown's Wharf (1629 Thames St.); In the Inner Harbor: McCormick & Schmick's (711 Eastern Ave., Pier 5); East of the city: Mariners Landing (601 Wise Ave., Dundalk).

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2505; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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