Water's Edge becoming more upscale, less rowdy

TABLE TALK

July 20, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

In spite of the name, Water's Edge (906 S. Wolfe St.) is in the process of quietly changing itself from a nautically themed seafood restaurant to one that specializes in eclectic food with a Maryland accent. The menu isn't the only thing that will be different. After extensive remodeling, the restaurant will open two more floors and a deck sometime this fall.

"We're trying to get away from the rowdy Fells Point crowd," says manager Kirk Spare. "We want to do something a little more upscale."

That involves a new chef as of a couple of months ago, Derek Broman, whose resume includes work in the kitchens of Doobie's, Linwood's and Liberatore.

His menu, which changes weekly, offers one or two vegetarian dishes, crab cakes and specials such as a Thai stir fry with Maryland crab, steak au poivre and macadamia-encrusted red snapper with a mango beurre blanc. Entree prices range from $10 to $22.

Water's Edge is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays, and 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays.

From German to American

Until recently, Starry Nights (12800 Frederick Road) predominantly specialized in German food. Now the West Friendship restaurant has a new chef, Dave Crider, who was formerly the executive chef at the CD Cafe in Solomons Island. Crider describes his food as new American with Latino and French influences. Look for dishes like pesto feta-crusted salmon, crispy jumbo shrimp over spiced remoulade, blackened strip steak with wild mushroom creole sauce and Aegean penne with sun-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives and red onions in a garlic-caper cream sauce. Entrees run from $13.95 to $21.95.

Starry Nights also has recently added a new, more formal dining room. The restaurant is open for dinner only Tuesdays to Sundays.

Online reservations

iSeatz.com is hardly a comprehensive online site for making restaurant reservations, but it's worth checking out before you travel to Atlanta, Washington, New York, New Orleans, San Francisco or Chicago. You could, for instance, log on and get a reservation for dinner at Antoine's in New Orleans or Four Seasons in New York.

The Web address is www.iSeatz.com.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2505; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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