A meal that's worth the wait

Crab: There's a line at this restaurant, and with good reason: food that includes crab cakes packed with lumps of meat and almost no filling.

Restaurant profile

Arundel Live

July 06, 2000|By Ruth P. Hakulin | Ruth P. Hakulin,SUN STAFF

I've often been asked, "Why is there always a line at the G&M Restaurant?" But I wasn't able to answer until a recent visit to satisfy my curiosity.

I now have an answer - well, maybe several answers.

The service, the food, the atmosphere. And did I mention the food?

Never have I had crab cakes with such huge chunks of crab meat. If you like crab cakes, these are heavenly.

But I'm jumping ahead. When we arrived at 6 p.m., without reservations, there was a moderate line outside the Linthicum restaurant. After leaving our name, we waited outside for about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, there are no seats in the restaurant where you can wait until you're called, but you can pass the time in the bar or in the carryout waiting area.

The restaurant is a former alley between two buildings that was enclosed by the former owners. The white walls are decorated with pleasant nature scenes.

Once seated, I was amazed at how quickly we received service. The waitresses and busboy hustle - our beverages were refilled frequently, without interruption.

I started my meal with Maryland crab soup that was filled with vegetables and hunks of crab meat. Meanwhile, my husband enjoyed flavorful French onion soup.

This was followed by a salad with a garlic house dressing. I then had the famous crab cake that was filled with lump crab meat and almost no filling. The crab meat was so intact that it tasted as if it had been freshly picked from the shell.

My husband feasted on king-cut prime rib (16 ounces) that was so tender he almost sent his knife back to the kitchen.

We then enjoyed super-moist carrot cake.

All this cost less than $50. The carryout menu includes so many items that you can start with breakfast at 7:30 a.m. Mondays through Fridays and at 8 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, and then enjoy lunch, dinner or an evening snack of pizza, submarines, Greek specialties, pastas and sandwiches.

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