Ellicot City getting Vietnamese eatery


July 06, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

They aren't exactly your typical foodie couple. Paul Pham, a clinical pharmacist by training, is on the faculty of the Johns Hopkins School of Medicine. His wife, Nina Song, operates two eponymous coffee bars. (One Nina's is in Glen Burnie, the other is downtown.)

So why are they venturing into the often perilous business of running a restaurant?

"We wanted a good Vietnamese restaurant to eat in," says Pham, "and there weren't any in Ellicott City."

The couple decided to open one in the Golden Triangle shopping center on the corner of Routes 29 and 40. House of Asia should be up and running by mid-July, once the various inspections have been completed. Pham promises authentic Vietnamese and Thai dishes, with a separate native chef in charge of each cuisine.

Ooh la la, Louis

You would think Roland Park had been waiting breathlessly for a French-style bistro for the last decade. Since the first night Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman of Charleston opened Petit Louis at 4800 Roland Ave., it's been hard to get a table. Its predecessor, Morgan Millard, was a nice restaurant but never this busy.

The renovation, duplicating the look of a Parisian bistro, is stunning; the classic bistro menu enticing; and the wine list, including many selections by the glass, admirable. The bad news is the noise level: You're guaranteed to have a splitting headache by the time you leave. Such is the price of success (and beautiful but bare pine floors).

Best on the beach?

If you think of beach food as steamed crabs and pizza, you've never been to Bethany's Parkway Restaurant, right in the heart of the Delaware beach town at 114 Garfield Parkway. Prices are steep, with entrees running from $17 for a terrine of vegetables to $34 for broiled lobster tail with saffron cream sauce, but hey-this is your vacation. Even if you just order from the light-fare menu (Caesar salad with grilled duck breast, $11, or insalata caprese, $9) you'll still get the fabulous Portuguese bishop's rolls. (They do look something like a miter.) The kitchen bakes these crusty-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside wonders to order.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2505; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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