Soul food now includes doughnuts


June 08, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Soulful suppers

It's a whole new definition of soul food. Heaven's Gate Eatery at 1825 N. Smallwood St. in West Baltimore is run mostly by members of the Hebron Memorial Church of God and Christ, with the motto "Food for the Body & Soul." The cafeteria is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day but Sunday.

You can get dinners such as fried chicken, ribs, pigs feet and meatloaf with gravy, and side orders such as hush puppies, black-eyed peas and candied sweets. But don't think everything is soulful. In the sinful treats tradition, Heaven's Gate proudly sells Krispy Kreme doughnuts.

New Italian deli

Mina Castellano has opened the new DePalma CafM-i at 111 S. Main St. in Bel Air with her mother, Santa Castellano. It's mom who does the cooking. "I'd probably burn everything," Mina says.

The cafM-i and deli, open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Saturday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., specializes in Italian delicacies. You might get, for instance, a turkey breast, provolone and marinated artichoke hearts sandwich on sourdough or an Italian antipasto salad.

Save room for dessert, which includes red velvet cake, brownies, cannoli and chocolate chip cookies, all made on the premises.

Hell's bells

You might want to turn your ringer off before you arrive. Cell phones are becoming an issue in restaurants nationally, with 20 percent of fine-dining restaurants instituting policies on cell-phone usage in their dining rooms, according to a survey by the National Restaurant Association. That's bad news for the 42 percent of those surveyed who said they make or receive calls when they eat out.

Dining al fresco

This is the time of year when people start asking me for recommendations of places where they can eat outdoors.

In Baltimore, the Inner Harbor is a given, but I usually suggest Gertrude's at the Baltimore Museum of Art because of the sculpture garden, Joy America Cafe's balcony, the new Donna's at Cross Keys, which has a surprisingly pastoral view from its balcony, and the Ambassador's garden terrace. I'd welcome other suggestions.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2505; or e-mail to

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