1998 Hess Select Chardonnay ($10).
This inexpensive, medium-bodied California chardonnay displays bright apple, lemon, white pepper and fresh- bread flavors, with a judicious touch of oak. No, it's not spectacularly complex or dramatic, but it's a well-crafted, versatile chardonnay that is widely available. It would be an excellent match with salmon or ham, and would work well with fried chicken.
