Chef Crise returns to Hunter's Lodge

TABLE TALK

April 06, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Foodies often have their favorite chefs, whom they follow from restaurant to restaurant. They may have had trouble keeping track of the peripatetic Jeffrey Crise, who's now back at Hunter's Lodge in Ellicott City.

Crise started off in Baltimore a decade ago as the owner of the Ambassador Dining Room, where he made his reputation as an innovative New American chef. He moved on to Hunter's Lodge, then to the kitchen of the newly renovated Sheraton Columbia Inn, and most recently to Hamilton's in Fells Point.

DuClaw microbrewery spreading out

Harford County's first microbrewery, DuClaw Brewing Company, has done so well it's expanding to several new locations, says its 30-year-old president, Dave Benfield. A lease has already been signed for a new location in Bowie. Negotiations are going on for a spot in Baltimore (Inner Harbor East). Benfield says he's just started looking in Silver Spring for a place to put a fourth DuClaw.

Home fires need tending

Such is the price of fame. The new Zagat Survey of New Orleans restaurants reports a sharp drop in the popularity and food ratings for Emeril's, celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse's home base. The likely reason, suggests Zagat, is that stardom and the consequent overexposure have hurt him at home.

Do-it-yourself doggie bags

Here's a new trend I've spotted, and one I'm not happy about. You're having lunch or dinner and you didn't clean your plate. Your waiter asks if you'd like to take your leftovers home. You say yes, but instead of removing your plate, he walks away. When he returns, he has a do-it-yourself doggie bag or container. That's not my definition of a full-service restaurant.

Anyone for tea?

I'm still interested in hearing about places where you can get a proper afternoon tea. Please fax your suggestions to me at 410-783-2502, e-mail me at elizabeth.large@baltsun.com or write to me at The Sun, 501 N. Charles St., Baltimore, Md. 21278.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2502; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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