1998 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($10).
Intensity is the key to the appeal of this lively dry white wine from Washington state. It offers a pure jolt of gooseberry and white pepper flavor, with nuances of mineral and herbs. For a relatively inexpensive wine, its length on the palate is astonishing. If you've been stuck in a chardonnay rut, this is a wine that'll tow you out of it.