Tosca Grill closes


March 30, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Germano Fabiani's experiment in Cal-Ital ended with the closing last month of the Tosca Grill in Owings Mills.

Fabiani, who owns Germano's in Little Italy, says the problem wasn't customers -- he had plenty of those for his pastas, pizzas and Tuscany entrees. But his rent was high for the kind of business he was doing, which was more dinner-after-work than special-occasion blowouts. The building's owner decided not to renegotiate the lease. "The choice was either close now or close five years from now," says Fabiani, who isn't sure whether he'll reopen Tosca elsewhere or not. "Right now I'm just thinking about what I should do."

Appetizing appetizers

First the Black Olive. Then Kali's Court. Now a third Greek seafood restaurant has opened in Fells Point. The opening of Karabelas Cuisine (318 S. Broadway) was delayed until owner George Karabelas could get his wait staff in place. Look for "updated Greek cuisine" and Mediterranean dishes, with an emphasis on grilled fish, says Karabelas.

Entrees run from $13 to $23, but the owner adds that the restaurant's specialty is appetizers. That's right in tune with the way many folks are eating these days: several small plates instead of one big meal.

A proper cup of tea

Tea, anyone? I'm looking for places that serve a proper afternoon tea for a Mother's Day-related story. Cucumber sandwiches aren't required; but atmosphere, properly brewed tea and good sweets and savories are.

Please fax your suggestions to me at 410-783-2502, e-mail me at or write to me at The Sun, 501 N. Charles St., Baltimore, Md. 21278.

G & M means crab cakes

Talk about specialization. I knew that G & M in Linthicum was known for its jumbo lump crab cakes. What I didn't realize was that 80 percent of its dinner orders are crab cakes. That translates to more than 4,000 pounds of lump crab meat a week. This time of year it comes from Southeast Asia and North Carolina.

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Home & Family section. This Sunday: Bistro Sensations in Towson Town Center.

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