1998 Kenwood Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($12...

WINE OF THE WEEK

March 29, 2000|By Michael Dresser

1998 Kenwood Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($12).

Here's a medium-bodied red wine that might offend Burgundy-loving purists but will delight just about any other wine consumer. The fruit flavors are broad, chunky and resolutely Californian, but this is a well-made wine at a very affordable price for a pinot noir. There's plenty of black cherry, plum and a hint of chocolate, a combination that could have taken it over the top if it didn't finish so cleanly. Like most pinot noirs, the Kenwood would be a versatile partner with a variety of foods, including roast chicken and grilled salmon or tuna.

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