Atlantis rises in Columbia shopping center

TABLE TALK

March 09, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Not to be confused with the Atlantic in Canton, the new Atlantis has opened in Columbia at 5485 Harper's Farm Road. The specialty is seafood, as you might guess from the name.

The menu stays the same at lunch and dinner. Signature dishes include oysters Atlantis (oysters stuffed with shrimp, crab and spinach, then topped with bearnaise sauce), crab cakes and lobster Thermidor. Entrees are priced from $10 to $28.

Owner Robert Alipanah, who worked at Mo's seafood restaurants before this, says he's so pleased with how business is going that he's putting a piano bar in soon.

Ijamsville inn spruced up

New owners have revitalized Gabriel's French Provincial Inn in Ijamsville, Frederick County. Sean DeLawder and his wife, Shirl, have spruced up the exterior of the 19th-century farmhouse and renovated the main dining room completely. They've kept the traditional French cuisine and multicourse dinners that start with hors d'oeuvre and proceed through soup, entree, salad, cheese tray and dessert. (You can also order a la carte.)

DeLawder says he's kept about half the original menu but made it his own, with specialties like beef Wellington, sauteed veal dishes and frog's legs. Prices are decent, with entrees running from $9 to $29.

The inn is just off Route 70, a few miles from New Market.

Seafood for two

Les Folies (2552 Riva Road in Annapolis) is offering le plateau de fruits de mer pour deux -- a sort of raw bar "seafood tray" for two -- which will make your mouth water just to hear about it. The first tier consists of three different varieties of oysters, scallops, clams and periwinkles. The second tier is sea urchins, mussels, snails of the sea, crab, shrimp and langoustines. You can stop there for $38 for two, or add a third tier with a whole main lobster, served cold and garnished with vegetables ($65 for two). Wow.

Peking duck in Roland Park

Does Roland Park really deserve such good fortune? The talented chefs of the now-closed Joe's Peking Duck have ended up at a tiny hole-in-the-wall called Chinese Delight at 4032 Falls Road. It's ironic to think that customers are probably ordering pork fried rice, when these cooks are capable of turning out much more sophisticated dishes -- including, of course, Peking duck. (Just call half an hour in advance.) Cash only and BYOB. Or better yet, carry out -- there's not much room here.

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