1999 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($8).
Aged wines get a lot of publicity, but this wine gives a vivid demonstration of the glories of youth. Just a few months from the vine, it offers exuberantly fresh, lively flavors and a fruitiness that takes the edge off its dry profile. There are appealing notes of herbs and juniper and excellent bite and grip. This wine just cries out to be served with seafood or Cajun cuisine. Geyser Peak continues on a most impressive roll.