Lynn's opens quietly on Fort Avenue, replacing Cup of Gold Cafe

TABLE TALK

February 17, 2000|By Elizabeth Large | By Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

With little or no fanfare, Lynn Schaare has opened Lynn's, a full-service restaurant, where her bistro, Cup of Gold Cafe, used to be (554 E. Fort Ave.). Paul Lopez, Lynn's executive chef, has been trained in French techniques; but the emphasis is on Maryland ingredients. So, for instance, you can get Maryland-style cioppino and sauteed rockfish as well as rack of lamb with provencale vegetable fricassee and breast of duck au poivre. Entrees are priced from $14 to $30.

Lynn's, which is open every night for dinner with brunch on the weekends, offers complimentary valet parking.

Sushi at the point

Fells Point is finally starting to get its fair share of sushi bars. Along with the Kawasaki Cafe at 907 S. Ann St., Asahi Sushi has opened at 629 S. Broadway. It's small, with only six tables and 12 stools at the sushi bar, and BYOB. But you can get a range of Japanese food, including teriyaki and noodle dishes.

Asahi Sushi is open seven days a week for dining and carryout.

Beyond hamburger

Those of you who remember Alonso's when the bar's most gourmet offering was an oversized hamburger will be startled at the new Italian-accented menu, which offers such delights as a mozzarella porcupine (the cheese is wrapped in katifi -- something like shredded wheat -- and fried until crisp) and osso buco with orecchiette pasta. Classic Restaurant Management, which operates both the bar and Loco Hombre next door on West Cold Spring Lane, hasn't done too much upscaling, though. The oversized hamburger and pizzas still have pride of place.

Koco's calling

Phillip and Marcella Rizas, who used to own Fins in Canton, have moved to Koco's Pub at 4301 Harford Road. Fins' specialties like the Killer Shrimp and Parrothead Chicken have gone with them. Meanwhile, Koco's has been extensively renovated. You can't miss it: It has a new yellow exterior.

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Home & Family section. This Sunday: Jeannier's

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