Vigil Vigilante Red, Numero Tres, Table Wine ($10).
Here's a hearty, fruity, somewhat rustic red wine that is just perfect for quaffing with hamburgers or a bowl of chili. This is not a wine for deep contemplation, but for inexpensive enjoyment. It offers straightforward beef and black currant flavors and a certain edgy intensity. It's a unique blend, whose largest component is the little-known Blue Portuguese variety (which, naturally, is native to Austria). Have a wine snob friend? Cover the back label, serve this wine and ask him or her to identify the grapes in the blend. You can have all kinds of fun with this wine.