1997 Georges Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vent, 75th Anniversary ($12).
This bottling marks the 75th anniversary of the establishment of the Moulin-a-Vent growing region, perhaps the finest patch of ground in Beaujolais. Moulin-a-Vent typically produces the most concentrated, sturdy and long-lived wines of Beaujolais (though they don't improve that much with age). This is a worthy example from Duboeuf, the "king of Beaujolais" and a winemaker who understands that fruit is everything in wine. This supple, lovely wine offers ripe raspberry flavors, excellent persistence and balance and a lively acidity that would make it a perfect accompaniment to roast chicken. The attractive bottle portrays one of the traditional windmills (moulins a vent) that give the region its name.