Capri specializes in New York-style Italian

Fresh sauces and breads and affordable prices make the difference

November 18, 1999|By Ruth P. Hakulin | Ruth P. Hakulin,SPECIAL TO THE SUN

Capri Pizza and Sub Express -- don't let the name fool you. Yes, the restaurant makes pizza, but if you ask anyone who has eaten the food, it's more than a pizza place.

Nestled in the Southgate Market Place shopping center on Hospital Drive in Glen Burnie since 1990, owners Karen and Joe Misuraca specialize in New York-style Italian food. Joe, a native of Sicily, moved to New York years ago, married and relocated to Glen Burnie in 1990.

On most days, there's a line of customers at the register waiting to place or pick up an order. Once you've tried the food, you'll understand why. The pizza dough, bread, rolls and sauce are made fresh daily.

But pizza is not all they serve. Consider the lasagna, the manicotti, the stromboli, the calzones, the ravioli or my favorite -- the spaghetti with marinara sauce. All of these are available daily and are made fresh, not sitting in a steam table as is the custom at some restaurants. In fact, the spaghetti's sweet marinara sauce is made when you order.

These meals range from $5.95 for basic spaghetti to $8.95 for the shrimp parmigiana with spaghetti. If you decide to order take-out, your food will probably be packaged in a deep, foil pan with enough to feed more than one person. With the dinners, you also get bread and a salad with dressing of your choice.

For the subs, the rolls are made on site every hour. The sandwiches range in price from $4.85 for a meatball sub to shrimp parmigiana at $7.05, and there are at least 30 subs to choose from. In addition, they have daily specials on their sandwiches that usually include fries.

The Capri is especially known for Sicilian pizza. Try the one called Capri special, measuring 18 inches, for $12.95. It's a large, square-cornered, thick-crust pizza topped with cheese, pepperoni, sausage, ham, mushrooms, green peppers, onions, and black olives.

Or, if you prefer a thin-crust pizza, order the Neapolitan special for $12.95. The small pizzas measure 12 inches and start at $7.45 for plain cheese.

If you want a non-Italian meal, you can opt for one of the many salads offered, ranging in price from $3.60 for a tossed salad to $5.55 for the steak salad. The variety is endless: antipasto, chef salad, tuna salad platter, Greek salad and shrimp salad, to name a few.

Though the Capri is known to those who frequent it as a carry-out restaurant, don't let that dissuade you from eating in, though the eating area is small (just seven tables) and the handicap accessibility is limited if a large wheelchair is needed.

The restaurant's cash-only policy might pose a drawback to some, but this is a casual restaurant and the food is inexpensive.

Capri Pizza and Sub Express

Where: 337 Hospital Drive, Glen Burnie, 410-766-2525

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily

Prices: dinner, $5.85-$7.95

Credit cards: None, cash only

Rating: ***

Ratings: * culinary wasteland **** culinary heaven

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