1998 Geyser Peak Russian River Valley Chardonnay...

Wine of the week

November 17, 1999|By Michael Dresser

1998 Geyser Peak Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($16).

This California chardonnay is a well-made wine for its price, but that seems to be routine from Geyser Peak. This critic could just as easily single out the winery's 1997 cabernet sauvignon, merlot or zinfandel (also $16) from Sonoma County, as well as the dry, bracing 1998 gewurztraminer ($9). The chardonnay stands out for its exceptional balance of fruit and oak. Its creamy texture and toasty flavors are accentuated by a lively acidity, with hints of white pepper, fresh bread, apple and sweet corn. Its intensity and length would be impressive in a $30 chardonnay. Based on the current releases, consumers would do well to remember the name Geyser Peak.

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