Wine of the week


November 03, 1999|By Michael Dresser

1998 Boordy Seyval Blanc, Sur Lie Reserve, Maryland ($10).

Boordy, Maryland's oldest winery, has moved beyond its humble origins and is now making very fine wines from classic European grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, cabernet franc and riesling. But those who know Maryland wine still consider its Sur Lie Reserve, made from old vines of the French-American hybrid seyval blanc, Boordy's flagship wine. The 1998 version is typically full-bodied, dry and well-structured for aging. It's a white wine that offers intense flavors of peach, pear, white pepper and subtly integrated oak. Boordy Sur Lie Reserves typically develop added complexity with three to five years' aging and can last even longer.

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