1994 Candido Salice Salentino Riserva ($7).This southern...

WINE OF THE WEEK

August 11, 1999|By Michael Dresser

1994 Candido Salice Salentino Riserva ($7).

This southern Italian red is a whole lot of wine for a fairly modest price. It's especially notable because it has a good deal of maturity, a boon to consumers who dislike the heavy tannins of new red wines. The Candido is a medium- to full-bodied Salice Salentino with spicy, leathery, meaty nuances and a generous dollop of black cherrylike flavor. The grip and intensity are impressive for a wine in this price class, and there's no reason to hurry to drink it up. This exceptional value is worth buying by the case.

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