Mughal Garden's new India Palace

TABLE TALK

August 05, 1999|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

The owners of Mughal Garden on North Charles Street have just opened a second restaurant in Cockeysville, the India Palace in Yorktowne Plaza. The menu is much the same as at the sibling downtown, with northern Indian cuisine the specialty. India Palace is open every day for lunch and dinner. Entrees run from $8.95 to $17.95.

India's culinary diversity

Now that regional Indian food is becoming as trendy as regional Italian once was, we'll be getting a chance to sample the differences at the Akbar Palace in Randallstown. This summer the restaurant is offering the rich, spicy foods from the peninsular plateau of India. In the fall "exotic Mughalai delights from the northern plains" will be on the menu. This winter the food of western India, a region known for its down-to-earth cooking, will be featured, and in the spring look for eastern Indian dishes. (Indian-style Chinese cooking is important in this region.)

A menu for the pros

John Turner, executive chef of Paolo's in Harborplace, has been invited to produce a six-course dinner for members of the James Beard Foundation at the James Beard House in New York on Aug. 26. The elaborate menu begins with lobster and artichoke rolls with heirloom tomato and blood orange syrup, moves through carpaccio of free-range veal and tartare of Summerfield Farms dry-aged beef with a savory roasted garlic sorbet and 50-year-aged balsamic vinegar, and ends with peach and polenta upside-down cake with a tamarind and preserved ginger soup, basil ice cream, pignolis and peach cracklings. No, I'm not making this up.

Priceless response

Ever been annoyed by a waiter reciting the specialties of the day and not giving prices -- then finding out how expensive the dishes were when you get the check? One reader wrote to Rocco's Capriccio in Little Italy to complain that the specials were more than $40, while entrees on the menu were under $25.

Here's the answer she got:

"I cannot apologize for my waiter not giving the prices of the chef's signature dishes. That's the way we have trained them. Let me first explain we at Rocco's Capriccio do not serve specials. Specials are yesterday's leftovers that the restaurant is trying to get rid of, and we do not serve leftovers. Secondly, we have a lot of professionals who entertain clients, and if we gave the prices it would offend them, making it look like they didn't have the money to pay. Also the clients would most likely not order because of the price, and the person entertaining them wants them to order whatever they wish, not worrying about the cost. If you dine in any fine dining establishment they never give the price of the chef's signature dishes, and some restaurants don't even have the prices on their regular menus. If price is an issue, maybe you should remember the next time you dine out in a fine dining restauurant to ask the prices."

And if we did serve leftovers, we wouldn't tell you the price of them, either.

Busdad

Be nice to that hard-working busboy in his 70s at Donna's, the University of Maryland Hospital location. That's Donna's dad, Joe Crivello, who was bored with retirement. No, he wasn't told he had to start at the bottom and work his way up. That was the part-time job he wanted.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-752-6049; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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