What's cooking for Bastille Day in the area's French restaurants

TABLE TALK

July 01, 1999|By ELIZABETH LARGE | ELIZABETH LARGE,Sun Restaurant Critic

Last year Mustapha Snoussi, owner of Crepe du Jour in the Cross Keys Village Square, dressed up as Napoleon in honor of Bastille Day. This year on July 14 the celebration will be even more elaborate, with crepes, grilled meats and seafood and French pastries on the menu. Music will be courtesy of a strolling accordion player.

Here's what other French eateries in the area will be doing to celebrate:

Jeannier's (Broadview Apts., 105 W. 39th St.) will have a prix-fixe menu for $37.50 featuring a classic French menu: a choice of pate or escargots; bouillabaisse, roast tenderloin Perigueux, or rack of lamb; dessert; and, of course, wine.

Elkridge Furnace Inn (5745 Furnace Ave., Elkridge) is having a wine tasting from 6:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. with "music and magic" in its garden. The cost is $25. A prix-fixe dinner will be available afterward.

Tersiguel's (8293 Main St., Ellicott City) is supplementing its country French menu with entertainment -- cancan dancers and musicians.

And La Madeleine (6211 Columbia Crossing, Columbia), the French bakery and cafe, will bake a special cake in honor of the holiday that will be "sampled out."

'Chef's table' at Hampton's

As chefs have become stars in their own right, chic restaurants have started holding "chef's table" dinners. Hampton's in Harbor Court is Baltimore's latest example. On Sunday evenings maitre d' Marc Dettori and Chef Michael Forster join 12 diners for a five-course meal and wine. Forster introduces each course and Dettori discusses the wines. Seats at the chef's table cost $115 a person. Reservations are necessary.

Beyond boardwalk fries

Boardwalk fries have gone upscale with the opening of Beljin Frituur (809 S. Broadway). The place sells the same sort of fries as Thrashers, which was previously in its location. The difference is the sauces that go with the fries: Dutch mayonnaise, Moroccan curry, roasted garlic, peanut, Thai, Cajun, pesto and orange ginger, to name a few. A small costs $2.75, medium is $4, and if you're really hungry, a large is $6.

Ringing criticism

Charles R. Carroll of Baltimore writes to complain about "those insensitive clowns" who use cell phones at their tables. Some Baltimore restaurateurs, he says, would like to check phones (as in checking coats) when customers enter as they do now in New York; but they are afraid they will alienate customers. "If New York can do it, certainly Baltimore should be able to require such a common courtesy of the diners."

Indian carryout

Recently I had good carryout from the new India Tandoor (21st and North Charles streets). Prices are reasonable: You can get a complete tandoor dinner to go for $11.95. I enjoyed the navrattan curry ($7.95), with its mix of fresh vegetables in a creamy sauce, a cooling yogurt raita and lots of bread to mop up the sauce.

It's a pretty little restaurant, but in a location that has been terrible for a couple of other eateries. I wish it luck.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-752-6049; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

Pub Date: 07/01/99

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