1997 Mirassou Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast ($12).
This was a big surprise. I've never been a big fan of Mirassou, but this cabernet is a real sleeper. It offers intense black cherry fruit with notes of chocolate, blackberry and herbs -- with none of the green pepper that can creep into Central Coast reds. It's quite accessible now, but has the structure to age well. The length of the finish is impressive. This will hold its own with many $25 California cabernets.