1996 Quintana North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($16).
Laurel Glen, one of the premier producers of red wine in California, has a new entry in the mid-priced market -- and it sings. It's a full-bodied young red that's pleasant enough now but needs a couple of years to show its full potential. It offers intense black cherry flavor with hints of leather and spice. It's a good junior version of the classic red produced under the Laurel Glen label.