Take another chop at Pier V restaurants


May 06, 1999|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

So you thought just because Lennys Chop House in the Harbor Inn Pier V closed, the restaurant was closed. Not so. Lenny Kaplan has left, but the newly named Chop House at Pier V remains open, with Lennys' general manager Robb Young promoted to food and beverage director for the hotel. Most of the staff remains, says Young. "A few line cooks and one server went with Lenny to the Polo Grill [Kaplan's other restaurant]."

Young is keeping Lennys' a la carte menu, but adding a prix-fixe dinner of four courses and four different wines for $60.

Meyer Jabara Hotels out of Palm Beach, Fla., took over management of the hotel a month or so ago. Plans are in the works to reopen what was the Cobalt Lounge by mid- or late May. Management is also trying to figure out what to do with the Dish Cafe, the hotel's chic coffee shop. As of now, it's open only for breakfast.

"We'd like to turn it into an upscale destination dessert restaurant," says Young.

When summer comes, look for afternoon tea, coffee and desserts to be available on the Harbor Inn's deck overlooking the harbor.

Hot new place

A new bar-restaurant, Hook, Line & Ax, has opened at 1705 Aliceanna St. in Fells Point where Tapestry used to be. Why the odd name? The owner, Karl Zimmerman, is a city fire fighter; general manager David Bycoffe fights fires for Baltimore County. So don't be surprised to find the kitchen turning out dishes like a "Back Draft Burger."

A full menu of American food and pub grub is available (no desserts yet), and there are 12 draft beers on tap. If the weather is warm, enjoy the tiny courtyard or the sidewalk seating out front.

New ways for Jose

No Way Jose Cafe -- known around here for its Tex-Mex food and margaritas -- moved to a newly renovated space about a month ago, across the alley from its old location at 1041 Marshall St. in Federal Hill. The new place, at 38 E. Cross St., is a little more formal as such things go (that is, there's an upstairs dining room if you don't want to eat in the bar).

In its spot on Marshall Street, Mas Jose (More Jose, in other words) has opened, but it's not just more Jose. The new/old place specializes in barbecue -- ribs and pit ham, pit turkey and pit beef, with two different barbecue sauces made on the premises.

In the family

Kirk Gorman's background is French cooking, and his parents own the natural foods restaurant Puffins in Pikesville; but when he started in business for himself a few months ago, he bought a Middle Eastern restaurant, the Desert Cafe (1605-7 Sulgrave Ave., Mount Washington). The 28-year-old, who does all the cooking, likes the cuisine so much he hasn't changed a thing except to add a few specials like a vegetable stew and garlic chicken over saffron rice. Leave your credit cards at home; it's cash or check only. Entrees run from $4.75 to $8.75.

Name change

Sevilla, at 4700 Eastern Ave., has become Marbella, but it's still a Spanish restaurant. It's open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Look for weekly dinner specials and lots of tapas.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-752-6049; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

Pub Date: 05/06/99

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