Fresh on the scene Telly Stroumbis, who was involved...

TABLE TALK

April 15, 1999|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,Sun Restaurant Critic

Fresh on the scene

Telly Stroumbis, who was involved with Champagne Tony's at the Belvedere and then Santi's in Middle River, has opened a new Mediterranean seafood restaurant, Kali's Court, with partner Vasili Keramidas. "Kali" is short for Kaliope, Keramidas' mother, and the court is the pleasant courtyard outside the restaurant at 1606 Thames St., Fells Point. (When the weather gets warm enough, tables will be set up there.)

Kali's Court brick-oven specialties include rockfish and red grouper with artichoke hearts. You can also get whole fish here and charcoal-grilled seafood, steak and chops. Entrees run from $15.95 to $24.95.

View from the porch

It was a beautiful spring day, and where better to have lunch than the porch of the Harryman House at 340 Main St., Reisterstown? The tables were decked out with crisp white linen, even outdoors at lunch, and there was a fine view of the blossoming tulip trees across the street. The restaurant's overstuffed deli sandwiches seemed a bit prosaic for the occasion, but a lunch special of quiche and fruit for $9 struck the right note. The delicate custard in its golden crust was studded with bits of shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes. Best of all was the fresh fruit. Juicy slices of pineapple, three kinds of melon, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and blackberries spilled over the plate. Three stars.

A sunny report

Espuma -- what an appropriate name for an upscale Mediterranean restaurant at the beach. The beach is Rehoboth, and the name means "foam" in Spanish. It also refers to the flavored foams that chef Wesley Overturf enhances his dishes with (such as a truffle-flavored foam), says owner Kevin Reading. Signature dishes include blue crab consomme and roasted fennel flan, pequillo pepper stuffed with spiny lobster brandade, and Tunisian grilled porgy with green apple conserve and barley-lentil salad.

Espuma opens May 1 at 28 Wilmington Ave. in Rehoboth Beach.

Tea for today

The building is for sale -- hence the big For Sale sign -- but owner Donna Beth Joy Shapiro says she's still serving tea in the Old Waverly History Exchange & Tea Room (414 E. 31st St.). She's hoping to sell the building and close the antiques shop and its tea room upstairs, then concentrate exclusively on her catering business.

Ladew's Sunday hours

In last week's item on the opening of the Ladew Topiary Gardens Cafe, I gave the wrong Sunday hours. The correct hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mea culpa.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-752-6049; or e-mail to elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

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