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Lemon Twists

How do you start with something tart, and end with sweet treats? We've squeezed together a few recipes.

March 17, 1999|By Elinor Klivans , los angeles times syndicate

By itself, the lemon, unlike so many other fruits, has no business being a dessert. But since its very sourness is a perfect match for sweet ingredients, the lemon is a tasty launching point for pies, curds, puddings, tarts and cakes.

Sugar is the first ingredient that comes to mind when trying to soften that lemon tang, but coconut or white chocolate can mellow the tartness and acidity as well. Naturally sweet or rich nuts also make a good foil to lemon.

Lemon also forms a nice partnership with other fruits. Adding lemon to sweetened fruit brings out the fruit flavor, while mixing lemon juice with peeled pears or apples keeps them white. Even delicate cream fillings become quite zesty when given a lemon boost.

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Other attractions? Lemons are available all year long, but some are better than others. Big lemons often have thick skins and are dry inside. Instead, look for average-size, smooth, thin-skinned lemons that are free of soft spots and yield to gentle pressure. These are likely to give the most juice.

Store lemons in the refrigerator, but bring them to room temperature before squeezing them so they release more juice. Rolling lemons on a hard surface, while pressing down on them with the palm of your hand, is another trick to help them give off their juice.

The most powerful lemon flavor is concentrated in the yellow peel, so the grated rind can add a hefty lemon boost to a dessert. Avoid the white pith, though, which is bitter. A zester is a handy tool for grating lemon peel, but a common four-sided grater works just as well.

Remember to grate the rind from lemons before cutting them for the juice. The juice you can squeeze from each lemon varies. On the average, you can expect 3 tablespoons of juice from one lemon and about 1 1/2 teaspoons of grated peel.

Also, wash lemons before using them. This is especially important when you are using the peel. For easier grating of the peel, dry washed lemons before grating them.

Lemon-Almond Macaroon Pie

Serves 8 to 10

1 unbaked cold pie crust in 10-inch pie pan

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

3 large eggs

1 large egg, separated

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 teaspoon almond extract

1 tablespoon amaretto liqueur

1 1/4 cups ground blanched almonds

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

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