1997 Beringer Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($13).
This lush, complex, rounded, dry sauvignon offers a fullness of flavor and compatibility with food that few chardonnays can match. The soft, toasty upfront feel never loses its sense of proportion. It's a wonderfully rich, long wine for this price. It would be ideal with grilled salmon, but has tremendous versatility. It offers exceptional complexity for the price.