No lumps, no bumps, just gorgeous gravy Sauce: Timing and technique are critical factors in the preparation.

A few years ago, just when I thought I had graduated from Gravy 101, I was stumped by a new challenge. My daughter declared herself a vegan - on Thanksgiving Eve. After a brief panic attack, I prepared a sauce for her vegetable loaf by sauteing portobello mushrooms (for color) with carrots, onions, celery, potatoes (for thickener) and herbs in olive oil.

Then I simmered the vegetables in vegetable broth until the liquid reduced. I pureed, strained and seasoned the sauce to perfection. Armed with so much information, I feel empowered; I'm so calm and confident, I often make these two great gravies each Thanksgiving. I may be a showoff, but I've paid my dues, and hey, I deserve a ride on the gravy train, too.

Rich Chestnut Gravy

Makes about 4 1/2 cups

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1/2 celery stalk, chopped

2 tablespoons cognac

1 1/2 cups whole, peeled and cooked chestnuts

1/2 cup merlot or other red wine

6 cups turkey stock (may substitute low-sodium chicken broth)

salt, freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in heavy, large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, carrot and celery and saute, stirring frequently, until soft and tender, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup chestnuts and cook, stirring frequently, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using wooden spoon, stir cognac and merlot into saucepan and cook about 2 minutes. Stir in stock and simmer about 30 minutes until slightly thickened. Cool slightly. Puree sauce in food processor or blender until smooth.

Return sauce to pan and bring to simmer. Cook until reduced to 4 cups, 15 to 20 minutes.

Chop reserved 1/2 cup chestnuts and add to gravy to warm through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made up to 2 days in advance.)

-- Inspired by a recipe in "Thanksgiving Dinner" by Anthony Dias Blue and Kathryn K. Blue (HarperCollins, 1990)

Perfect Pan Gravy

Makes about 3 cups

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 tablespoons flour

defatted drippings from roast turkey

2 to 3 cups turkey stock

salt, freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat (or in turkey roasting pan), watching carefully so it doesn't burn. Add flour, stirring constantly with wooden spoon. Continue stirring and cooking 2 to 3 minutes or until golden and flour mixture is smooth.

Pour defatted drippings into 1-quart measuring cup. Add enough stock to measure 3 cups. Slowly add mixture to saucepan, stirring constantly. (If using roasting pan, scrape bottom to release brown bits.)

When all liquid is added, bring to simmer and whisk sauce until it's thick enough to lightly coat back of spoon, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pub Date: 11/18/98