The face of fall Focus on beauty

September 20, 1998|By Judith Forman | Judith Forman,SUN STAFF

The subtle, neutral shades of summer makeup have gone the way of the backyard barbecue. Fall, only days away, brings a healthy glow - complete with wine-stained lips, shimmery eyes and pink cheeks.

While earth tones dominated faces last fall, berry hues are in for 1998, complementing the shades of gray that have come off the runways. The deeper colors also bring out the textures of two of the hottest fall fabrics - cashmere and velvet.

Cosmetic companies are hailing this season as a return to color. Lancome's already popular fall collection, aptly titled Rouge, is testament to that; its dramatic reds are combined with strong or subtle hints of gray, burgundy and blackened plum.

Ruby lips and nails may seem commonplace, but a fire-engine shade on eyes and cheeks looks shocking and new.

"The look for the fall is very glamorous but very simple," says Wendy Gamble, a national makeup artist with stila cosmetics. "Light, clean eyes, the berry-pink baby-doll cheek and the rich berry-toned lip."

Glitter and sparkle have been popular for a few seasons and continue to shine this fall. Cool shimmery products such as stila's body cream, nail polish and eye shadow are big.

"You're glowing like you're happy," Gamble says. "You look really healthy - like you drank a lot of water yesterday."

The spotlight is on cheeks this season, with many companies trading in the traditional sweep of color for a more apple-cheeked glow.

"Cheeks are huge," says Jillian Veran, a makeup artist for Bobbi Brown essentials. "A pop of pink is very modern and very fresh."

Skin

"Long gone are the days of wearing pancake makeup," says Gordon Espinet, a makeup artist with MAC. "The color should always identically match your skin tone."

A staple of many women's cosmetic bags, foundation is one of the standards that changes little from season to season. But for a new spin on an old product, Bobbi Brown has introduced a Fresh Glow Cream Foundation ($35) in 10 shades. The creamy, whipped foundation resembles a beige-tinted cold cream.

"It provides flawless coverage and it's not heavy or matted down," Veran says. "It's a beautiful dewy look on the skin."

Cheeks

Think healthy, flushed cheeks for fall. Bright, bold blush is back.

"It's not your grandmother's rouge," Gamble says. "It's a pinch-your-cheeks blush."

Bobbi Brown's blush ($19) in pale pink is so bright it's almost scary at first sight, but the powder blush creates a fresh look once brushed on cheeks. Another good choice for powder blush is stila's cheek color ($15) in warm (plum), belle (bright berry) and rouge (crimson red). Be prepared for more of a color explosion here.

Lips

Berries are no longer just for the appetite; they also are showing up on luscious lips this season.

Stained lips are big at Revlon. The bitten look (lightly blotted) is fresh and outdoorsy, like lips just in from the cold. Revlon's Super Lustrous Lipstick ($7.75) in deep berry is one of the darkest and richest of the bunch, although it leaves a waxy "drugstore" aftertaste.

Bobbi Brown's lip color ($16) in wine is more of a brick color and tastes faintly like Revlon's, even though it's twice the price.

Another look for fall lips is gray with a metallic tint. MAC has a line of neutral but distinct shades ($13.50), which come in colors such as gleam, terra and vista .

And to add some shimmer, Bobbi Brown's lip gloss ($18) does the job. The gloss doesn't just give lips shine, but with aloe extract, avocado oil and vitamins C and E, it gives dry lips a break.

Eyes

With strong lips and bright cheeks defining the fall face, Gamble cautions women against creating overpowering eyes.

"If you were to put color on your eyes, you would look like the '80s painted girl that you've spent the past 10 years trying to correct," she says.

The fashionable eye is either shimmery or smoky this season. If you want to go for a playful shine, stila's eye shadows ($15) in moonlight (white), starlight (cream) or twilight (silver) give a light, clean look.

Or if you prefer a sultry eye, shale (muted plum) or venus (smoky gray) are good choices from MAC'S powder eye shadow line ($11.50).

Smoky eyes don't have to cost big bucks. Revlon's take on the trend is an eye shadow ($3.90) in new berry, midnight wine or slated gray and a liner for eyes ($5.95) in ebony or smoke.

Mascara is another favorite that has been updated by stila with colorful metallic shades ($16) including jade and azur. Also available are matching metallic shadows ($15) for a dramatic monochromatic eye.

Pub Date: 9/20/98

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