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Heating things up Chipotle chilies give dishes a chic, new attitude

September 02, 1998|By Cathy Thomas , Orange County Register

No wonder chipotle chilies are chic. Their deep, rounded heat leaves a subtle smoky finish on the palate. A hint of smokehouse bacon without the fat.

Some foodies taste the whisper of chocolate in chipotles (chih-POHT-lays). Even hazelnuts.

Chipotles breathe soul into soup. Turn meatloaf into heat loaf.

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An instant cure for bean, beef or broccoli boredom.

Red-ripened jalapenos that have been smoked and dried, chipotles are sold either canned in adobo sauce (a puree of tomatoes, onions, vinegar and spices) or in dry form packaged in small cellophane bags.

Usually, the canned chipotles are the easiest to find. They're sold at Hispanic markets, specialty shops and some supermarkets. The cans are small, usually about 7 ounces. As many as 18 whole chipotles cram the can. Adobo fills in the gaps, coating each chili with rust-colored sauce.

But most recipes call for one or two, not a whole canful. So, rather than waste one precious chili (and to save a lot of time in future recipes), I remove all the canned chipotles with a fork, leaving a thin layer of adobo on each (about three tablespoons of adobo will be left behind in the can). I pop them in a mini-food processor (or blender) and puree them (most recipes call for chipotles to be finely chopped or pureed). One chipotle covered with sauce makes about 1 1/2 teaspoons of puree.

I package canned chipotle puree in one-tablespoon mounds in small, zipper-style plastic bags and freeze them. They're ready when I need them. And if I need less than a tablespoon, I remove the frozen puree from the plastic and cut off the amount I need; the remainder goes back in the freezer.

Dried chipotles, which range from suede tan to coffee brown and have sharp ridges, are harder to find. Some Hispanic markets sell them, but the easiest way to get them is often through mail-order catalogs - such as Melissa's World Variety Produce at 800-588-0151 or Santa Fe Cooking School, 800-982-4688. To reconstitute them, remove the stems and place the chipotles in a saucepan with water to generously cover. Bring to a boil; remove from heat and allow to soak for 20-30 minutes or until pliable and tender; puree or finely chop.

Here are 10 ways to chew on chipotles. Remember, start with a small amount. Then taste and add more to suit your lust for sizzle and smoke.

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