April 02, 1998|By Bonita Dvorak Formwalt | Bonita Dvorak Formwalt,SPECIAL TO THE SUN
"Do they know your idea of gourmet cooking generally involves buying a squirt bottle of spicy brown mustard?" my sister asked as I shared the news that my culinary talents had been tapped to write a restaurant review.
The offer: dinner for two, under $50. Free meal. Someone else does the dishes. I was sold.
Still stinging from my husband's critique of a recent meatloaf effort, I chose not to invite him, electing instead to take my sister, Pat Dvorak. Raised on a working mother's menu of Hamburger Helper, we would rise to the challenge together.
But where?
"You have to go to Romano's," urged a friend.
After checking to make sure it met our criteria -- they let you eat the food before making you pay -- the Dvorak sisters traveled to Ritchie Highway and Romano's Restaurant.
We arrived at midafternoon on a Sunday and were seated immediately. Our very young and friendly waitress took our drink orders, iced tea ($1) and a diet Pepsi ($1) and left us to decide on our meal.
Immediately, the sibling struggle emerged: We both wanted the cream of crab soup ($3.25 a cup). I carefully explained to Pat that we had an obligation to try at least two appetizers and that since I was the writer, I should get the soup and she could have a salad. We eventually compromised.
We both had the cream of crab soup.
It was smooth, with an occasional chunk and several flakes of crab meat, and we agreed that we had made the appropriate decision.
We both wanted crab cakes. Again I said that I was the writer and therefore should order the crab cakes. Pat had a two-page menu of Italian and Greek dishes, and seafood and pasta from which to choose. She ignored me and ordered the crab cake dinner ($17.95), which came with two vegetables.
The vegetable list was short, and Pat selected mashed potatoes and green beans.
I opted for the chicken breasts a la parmigiana ($9.95) which came with spaghetti and bread.
While waiting for the entree, we were treated to an interesting Muzak rendition of the Bee Gees' greatest hits, which gave us a chance to check out the restaurant. Decorated in cool greens and whites, the surroundings were pleasing. Many patrons were dressed in their Sunday best, but others arrived in casual clothes, even jeans. We both noted that trays of dirty dishes were left in sight along a back wall, detracting from the appearance of the room. It looked a little too much like home.
Then dinner arrived. Pat's meal offered two huge back-fin crab cakes, broiled to a golden brown. The crab meat was moist and lumpy, with just enough filler to hold it together. There were no shells, and the taste of the crab meat wasn't overpowered by seasoning.
My chicken parmigiana, a boneless breast sauted in butter and topped with tomato sauce and cheese, was also a very large portion.
The chicken was very good, completely cooked but not dry. The side dish of spaghetti, with a thin, bland tomato sauce, was not as successful
Pat's vegetables were the biggest disappointment. The potatoes were not homemade, and the canned green beans were laced with the same thin tomato sauce. It didn't work. Next time I would suggest the applesauce (no one can hurt applesauce) and the french fries (I saw some at another table, and they looked nice and crisp).
Neither of us could finish our meal. In fact, every patron we saw leave took home part of their meal.
Not that this stopped us from ordering dessert. Pat ordered the chocolate cake ($2.25), and I had plain cheesecake ($2.25). Both were fine but nothing special.
Our bill, plus a 20 percent tip (our waitress was great), came to $50.
We didn't order anything from the bar, but there are frozen drinks and a brief wine list.
Afterward, we decided we would come back again.
We might bring our father to Romano's when he visits next month. Then, someone else will pay and we can both get the crab cakes.
While David Michael Ettlin and Bonnie J. Schupp were on vacation, The Sun in Anne Arundel asked another Bonnie to pinch hit in search of a meal for two priced under $50 (before tip and taxes).
Romano's
Where: 6905 Ritchie Highway, Glen Burnie, 410-768-8188
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday to Thursday and 11 a.m. to 12 midnight Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Appetizers, $1.95-$9.95; entrees, $4.25-$19.95; desserts, $1.75-$2.50.
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express
Rating: ** 1/2
Ratings: * culinary wasteland
**** culinary heaven
Pub Date: 4/02/98
