1996 Bogle Petite Sirah ($11).
This California red is made for hard-core flavor freaks, not those with sensitive Euro-palates. It's an ultra-concentrated bombshell of a wine with intense blackberry, plum, wood smoke and chocolate flavors, as well as a "dusty" note reminiscent of the Napa Valley's Rutherford Bench cabernets (which it otherwise resembles not in the least). Unlike many petite sirahs, it's a supple wine that doesn't assault you with raging tannins. It will likely age well, but it's so appealing now there's no reason to bother keeping it.