1992 Fabre-Montmayou Malbec, Mendoza ($10).
There are some rough edges to this big Argentine red, but if you like wines that really take charge, this is one of them. It's packed with black-currant and smoked-meat flavors, slightly tamed with a generous dollop of oak, and quite long in the finish. It would be even better with some cellar age, but it's hard to say how long it would last.
