A steakhouse by spring

TABLE TALK

December 18, 1997|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Steve de Castro has been looking for a place in Annapolis to open his second Ruth's Chris Steakhouse for a couple of years now. The owner of the Baltimore franchise has finally found his spot: Marmaduke's at 301 Severn Ave.

"The size definitely appealed," says de Castro. "Others have been too small. And the fact that there's plenty of parking. It was totally remodeled a few months ago, so I have a lot to work with."

That raises the question: Why would Marmaduke's owner, Bill Heim, sell so soon after renovating and "upscaling" the menu, making the place more of a restaurant and less of a pub? After 25 years in the business, Heim was ready to retire -- once he got an offer too good to refuse.

Marmaduke's will close Jan. 1 and, after more remodeling, should reopen as a Ruth's Chris around March 15.

Milton Inn reopens with Boston in the kitchen

Brian Boston, one of those chefs Baltimoreans follow from restaurant to restaurant because they like his cooking so much, has become a chef-partner in the newly reopened Milton Inn in Sparks. His earlier kitchens include those at the Brass Elephant, Pier 500, his own restaurant Boston's and, most recently, Peerce's Plantation.

Boston describes his menu for the Milton Inn as "contemporary American," with signature dishes of duck with raspberries, sweet potato mousse and seasonal vegetables, and venison loin with a sauce of Calvados, red currants and chestnuts, served with wilted mustard greens. Entree prices range from $18 to $25.

The restaurant reopened quietly Dec. 10 after extensive renovation. Besides a new chef and a new menu, it has a new English country decor by Sandy Sites Glover Inc.

And, back at the Plantation

Meanwhile, now that Brian Boston has left Peerce's Plantation in Phoenix, Duff Lake (son of owner Peerce Lake) and Josef Gohring (who also owns Josef's Country Inn) have taken over managing the Peerce's kitchens. Three weeks ago Peerce's Gourmet in Timonium closed as a gourmet takeout; it's now where the restaurant's catering operation is located. For gourmet to go, there's Peerce's to Go in the Shops at Kenilworth.

Drinking in style

Della Notte in Little Italy has dispensed with its pastry shop and constructed a lavishly appointed bar and lounge in its place. Out with the biscotti. In with the high-end cognacs, armagnacs and vintage ports, as well as the usual beer, wine and liquor.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2519; or e-mail to elizabeth.largaltsun.com.

Pub Date: 12/18/97

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