U. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling...

1995 J.

December 07, 1997|By Michael Dresser

1995 J. u. H. A. Strub Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett ($11).

This modestly priced, off-dry German white wine offers all the NTC over-the-top drama and soaring high notes -- not to mention the length -- of a Wagnerian opera. It crashes on the palate with a wave of sweet, spicy, fiery fruit, but finishes dry. It cries out to be served with spicy Asian cuisine. Over the past three vintages, Strub's kabinett and spatleses have ascended to levels previously unknown in the Rheinhessen and seldom equaled anywhere in Germany.

Pub Date: 12/07/97

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