Hyatt's new Pisces

November 27, 1997|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Opening day for the Hyatt Regency's new restaurant Pisces, which replaces Berry & Elliot's on the top floor of the hotel, is set for Dec. 5. As you can guess by the name, Pisces is vying to be that one great seafood restaurant every harbor city should have.

Its proposed dinner menu isn't huge, but it features less ordinary fish such as tilapia as well as crab cakes and such. Most of the choices are decidedly au courant, like the halibut with bok choy and sugar snap peas or smoked salmon fillet with braised romaine and beluga lentils. Pisces' raw bar has at least two or three varieties of oysters plus clams, steamed shrimp and mussels.

Succulent Cactus Willie's

The new Cactus Willie's (1125 Cromwell Bridge Road next to the old Luskin's) is doing so well that others should be opening in Glen Burnie, Essex and Westminster soon. It's an all-you-can-eat chain with a twist: sirloin steak is grilled to order. Of course, there's the usual spread as well, including baked ham, fish, ribs, fried chicken, vegetables, a pasta bar, a salad bar and desserts. Cactus Willie's also has its own bakery. The cost? $7.29 plus tax.

Restaurants are essential

Sometimes it seems as if no one is eating at home anymore. A new report by the National Restaurant Association, "Tableservice Trends -- 1997," confirms the movement out of our own dining rooms: Some 40 percent of people with incomes over $50,000 report that restaurant meals "are essential to the way they live." Surprisingly, 43 percent of adults with household incomes less than $15,000 say the same thing.

One-half of Americans are cooking fewer meals at home than they were two years ago. But consumers are eating healthier, it seems. They report eating more chicken (35 percent) and more seafood (27 percent) than they were two years ago. The strongest growth among 12 menu items surveyed was an increase in salad orders.

Even on Monday

J. Paul's in the Light Street Pavilion is open every day for lunch and dinner, not Tuesday through Sunday as I reported in my Nov. 16 review.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278; fax to 410-783-2519; or e-mail to

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Today section. This Sunday: The new Oregon Grille, with former Milton Inn chef Mark Henry in the kitchen.

Pub Date: 11/27/97

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