1995 B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon ($17)
This smooth, refined red wine (80 percent San Luis Obispo County, 20 percent Sonoma County) is a worthy little brother to Cohn's flagship Olive Hill Vineyard cabernets. There's generous black-cherry fruit here, a light hint of Provencal herbs and a Bordeaux-like acidity. This moderately complex wine should improve for a year or two but basically is structured for early consumption.