Shooting for the hip To the trendy, the rich and the creative, Miami offers the sun and the moon.

It's only minutes away from midnight on Miami's Washington Avenue, the highway's jammed with broken heroes on a last-chance power drive for a parking space, and there's a throng of 100 or so people crammed in front of a rather plain-looking building. They press against the velvet ropes, faces a mixture of anticipation and angst, praying to snag the eye of the doorman and be ushered through the hallowed portals. Instead, many are left to wait in the warm, tropical night while others -- on the list or simply in-the-know -- glide through on a cloud of air kisses and attitude.

"Name?" one of the clipboard-wielding doormen barks at a seemingly middle-aged hopeful before softening a bit when the name the man gives has a Hollywood ring to it. But, just as quickly, the doorman snaps back into Checkpoint Charlie mode as he runs down his clipboard. "Nice name. Sorry, you're not on the list."

Of course, the guy with the nice name could eat a steaming slice of humble pie and go over to the nonguest-list pay line, but there's no entry guarantee there, either.

Welcome to Miami Beach, dude.

The club in question on this night is Liquid, co-owned by Madonna friend Ingrid Casares and a playground for supermodels, superstars, superegos and Antonio Sabato doppelgangers, but it could have been any of 25 or so nightspots in Miami Beach. In the past decade, the area has blossomed into one of the country's premier night-life cities. Thanks in large part to an influx of Latin-American and European immigrants, the exploding local fashion and music scenes, and laws that allow drinking until 5 a.m., the city that once was billed as "God's waiting room" because of the large numbers of elderly retirees has undergone major rejuvenation.

It's also become infamous since last month's slaying of famed fashion designer and resident Gianni Versace. Before his death July 15, he was well-known on the nightclub circuit, and his palatial villa was the site of many A-list soirees.

Of course, everyone knows that Miami has been on the fashion-faddists' radar scope for a while now. After years of decay, the region burst into public consciousness with TV's "Miami Vice," restored tropical-deco hotels and such newly arrived homebuyers as Madonna and Sylvester Stallone.

But what's less publicized is what a cool hangout Miami -- particularly Miami Beach -- can be for the young nightclub crowd, though the drinking age is 21. It was no accident that MTV chose Miami for last year's edition of "The Real World," the popular documentary series where seven young people have to live together for six months.

From old-fashioned American rock and roll and jazz to dance music in all its forms, it's all here, much of it within a few short blocks in South Miami Beach. Dance music is especially big here, perhaps because of the Latin and European influences. Raves are big throughout Florida -- a recent Sunshine State-theme dance music compilation compact disc, "Sunshine State of Mind," has just been released -- and each March, the dance-oriented Winter Music Conference comes to town. It brings with it a raft of performers showcasing in local clubs.

A couple of blocks over from Ocean Drive, the row of deco hotels and yupscale restaurants that offer the requisite postcard image, is Washington Avenue, a stretch of neon-lighted night life that need not bow its party-hearty head to New York or New Orleans. Even on weeknights, it's swarming with 20- and 30-whatevers, many dressed (or undressed) to show off their gym-chiseled bodies, roving from club to club until near dawn. In between is Collins Avenue, slightly more sedate, but still home to Amnesia, an outdoor club that blasts house music to the heavens until the wee hours.

Ease yourself into the Miami mind-set by tuning into two local radio stations, Power 96.3 FM and Tropical 98.3 FM. The former spins the latest in hip-hop, house, techno and other dance styles, while the latter is all salsa, all the time. Put the two together and you're listening to the soundtrack and heartbeat of young Miami.

Then there's what to wear. In a city where a visitor can stumble across a fashion photo shoot as easily as stepping off a curb, it's no surprise that looks are so prized here. But it doesn't have to be that way. The more rock-oriented clubs (Rose's Bar and Lounge, Chili Pepper, Stella Blue, Churchill's Hideaway, Society Hill) and jazz joints (MoJazz Cafe, Jazid) are slightly less concerned about such things. It's the discos where sartorial discrimination reigns.

To be on the safe side, leave the tennis shoes, shorts and T-shirts for pool-side and beach-going. Instead, opt for something comfortable but stylish.

It also helps either to be a supermodel or to show up in the company of one, but, if Tyra Banks is not on your speed dial, act with a bit of confidence but stop short of arrogance. (Experts who know these things say name-dropping or palming the doorman a few bucks won't necessarily help. A prayer or two may be more effective.)