1995 Beringer Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($12).
This is becoming a very predictable recommendation. Another year, another fine chardonnay from Beringer. Because it's made in large quantities, you can find it almost anywhere, but it bears none of the obvious signs of mass production. There's fine intensity, a delicate balance of oak and fruit, and well-integrated nuances of vanilla, apple and toast. Beringer continues to be one of the most reliable names in California wine.