From Red Sage to Belvedere


April 17, 1997|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

When the Belvedere Restaurant Group (1 E. Chase St., 410-347-0888) lost Pauli Santi, aka Champagne Tony, it lost the chef its main dining room was named after. But now the Belvedere restaurants have come up with an interesting replacement. Morou D. Ouattara, a native of the Ivory Coast, has arrived from the Red Sage in Washington, where he was executive sous chef. He plans to focus on "contemporary American cuisine, emphasizing presentation as well as taste" at Truffles Restaurant at the Belvedere (the main dining room's new name as of May 1) and the Owl Bar, the Belvedere's more casual bar-restaurant.

Casual trend

The Country Fare Inn (808 Westminster Road, 410-833-3994) is going the way of many '90s restaurants. It's becoming a more casual place to eat. With the closing of the nearby Fiori in Owings Mills and its popular Wine Cellar Pub, the Country Fare Inn hopes to fill the void with more pub fare, including sandwiches, dinner salads, pastas and lower-priced entrees. The inn has also added a happy hour and live music.

Sweet on Hampden

Along with its new home shops and a new gourmet Italian grocery, Hampden will soon have a new hip hangout, the Golden West Cafe (842 W. 36th St.), scheduled to open in May. There will be European-style sandwiches on baguettes and croissants, salads and specialty drinks. But it sounds as if desserts will be the main attraction. Owner Thomas Rudis plans to make his own biscotti, tiramisu and creme brulee, as well as to carry sweets from some of the top bakeries in the area.

Baby eels

Tio Pepe (10 E. Franklin St., 410-539-4675) is introducing angulas to Baltimore in several new dishes. These baby eels aren't on the menu; you have to request them -- at $200 a pound, they are an expensive delicacy. (Don't expect to find a pound of them on your plate.) You should always ask a waiter the cost of a restaurant's specials, but with these it's a necessity.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Elizabeth Large's reviews appear inside the Sunday Today section. This Sunday: J. Leonard's Waterside, the new restaurant where Pier 500 used to be.

Pub Date: 4/17/97

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