New at Fells Point


April 03, 1997|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

The Black Olive

Even the name suggests that the Black Olive is something different. After all, it's one Greek eatery not named after an owner, a classical monument or an island.

The new restaurant at 814 S. Bond St. (410-276-7141) in Fells Point has plenty of fresh, young style -- perhaps because it's run by a 26-year-old, Dimitris Spiliadis. "Somehow I convinced my parents to open a restaurant," he says with a laugh.

It offers an open kitchen where you can watch the staff at work preparing grilled fish (the house specialty) and traditional Greek and Mediterranean dishes. There's also a brick oven that produces freshly baked bread.

Hours are Tuesday through Saturday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. anSunday 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.

M. Gettier's Orchard Inn is up and running as of Wednesday a week ago. If you visit Michael Gettier's new digs at 1528 E. Joppa Road in Towson (410-823-0384), don't expect the same French food with a few idiosyncratic touches that was the mainstay of the former menu. (His Fells Point restaurant, M. Gettier, closed Dec. 31.)

"I know 'Continental' has negative connotations these days," says Gettier, "but I have to describe the new menu as 'contemporary Continental.' "

ZTC And why has he kept the second part of his restaurant's former name? "It's been the Orchard Inn for 43 years," he says. "I would have felt bad changing it. I'm a traditionalist."

Hello Ciao!

Annapolis has its first Mediterranean bistro with Ciao! at 51 West St. (410-267-7912). The term "bistro" is slightly misleading -- although it's the one owner Diane Anderson uses. Ciao! is on its way to being a full-fledged restaurant.

Executive chef Jason Milanese is creating a new seasonal menu for spring with many more dishes, including more traditional Mediterranean ones. (The winter menu offered such temptations polenta with wild mushroom ragout and a port demi-glace, and barbecued fillet of salmon on a bed of Napa cabbage with potato galette and smoked applewood bacon.)

Located in the downtown historic district, Ciao! is a good place to keep in mind for lunch if you're in Annapolis on a day trip.

Virtual salad

Salad of the Week: Field greens, dried cranberries, sunflower seeds for a bit of crunch, slices of starfruit and raspberry vinaigrette. I found it at the Strand, the new cybercafe in the Inner Harbor. The combination sounds too chic to be good, but somehow it works.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Today section. This Sunday: Bandaloops in Federal Hill.

Pub Date: 4/03/97

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