1995 Hedges Fume-Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($9.49).
Columbia Valley, in Washington state, is earning a reputation for skillful blending and sound value. This crisp, dry white wine displays both. Its smoky, herbal flavors from sauvignon blanc grapes intertwine neatly with the apple nuances and fuller body of the chardonnay. Together, they form a stylish, medium-bodied wine that could be matched with a variety of seafood dishes.