Peerce's for the '90sRegulars at Peerce's Plantation in...


November 21, 1996|By Elizabeth Large | Elizabeth Large,SUN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Peerce's for the '90s

Regulars at Peerce's Plantation in Phoenix may have noticed some changes lately. Brian Boston, who was running the kitchen at Peerce's Gourmet in Timonium, has left to become corporate chef of the Peerce's restaurant group. (Now that he's no longer cooking at Peerce's Gourmet, the cafe has started closing at 6 p.m.)

Boston has added some new dishes at Peerce's Plantation but is committed to the restaurant's traditional menu of crab cakes, rack of lamb, lobster and the like. "We want to bring Peerce's into the '90s," he says, "while keeping the charm it's always had." He's also putting more emphasis on plate presentation. On Friday and Saturday nights you'll find Boston doing the cooking, some of it tableside.

Meanwhile, the Peerce's group has opened Peerce's to Go in the Shops at Kenilworth. Selections from its hot and cold buffet ($5 a pound) can be eaten at tables in the center courtyard. Hours are 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday.

Reopened Illona

Illona, a Highlandtown landmark for many years before it closed last January, is newly renovated and back in business at 422 S. Macon St. The original Illona was unusual because it was an Italian restaurant among mostly Greek places. The new owners, two brothers of Greek descent, have kept it Italian for the most part. But Jimmy Minadakis (of Jimmy's Famous Seafood) and his brother George have added some Greek dishes and American steaks and seafood to the menu. The old Illona served only wine and beer; now a full bar is offered.

And yet another oldie but goodie has resurfaced. Remember Pecora's, the pizza place and Hopkins hangout on Greenmount Avenue? The owner's son opened a full restaurant in Towson in the '70s. Eventually they both closed.

Now Pasquale Pecora, who owned the Towson restaurant, has opened a new Pecora's in Little Italy, in the spot where Il Porto most recently was (1012 Eastern Ave.). Look for the same traditional fare that the Towson restaurant specialized in, such dishes as fettuccine Alfredo and veal francese.

At the counter

One last reopening: The lunch counter at the Woman's Industrial Exchange (333 N. Charles St.) is back in business after being closed for the summer. Here you can get the homey, old-fashioned food the Exchange is famous for, and even pick up carryout. (Call [410] 685-4388.) Hours are 11 a.m. to 2: 30 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Table Talk welcomes interesting tidbits of restaurant news. Please send suggestions to Elizabeth Large, Table Talk, The Sun, 501 N. Calvert St., Baltimore 21278. Or fax to (410) 783-2519.

Elizabeth Large's reviews of restaurants appear inside the Sunday Today section. This Sunday: Rothwells. Mark Hofmann, formerly chef at Due, has opened his own restaurant.

Pub Date: 11/21/96


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